Tuesday, November 29, 2005

It's a Small World After All

Yes indeed, folks - Seattle is small.

So small that I've only been here a few days and it's like I never left. Well, except the whole 'older and wiser' attitude and funnier stories about New York. But here are some examples of what I mean...

- The anonymous guy who runs the barber shop around the corner waved and asked if I was back.
- The woman who runs 'Fini,' the coolest accessories shop in the world saw me 3 weeks ago and asked if I was back and if I brought my dog too.
- The two brothers at the pho place I used to go to in Redmond cheered when I walked in the door today and asked if I'd done something to my hair because it looked different.
- While at the grocery store in the fruits and vegetables section, a woman came up and offered me a sample of a cookie. She was an old friend who used to live in my apartment building from 5 years ago - and when the new gourmet grocery store opened near her place, she and her husband went to work there. It just happened to be the first grocery store I walked into.
- While walking Grendel I ran into the woman who used to cut my hair (and lived upstairs from me).
- Standing on the corner talking on the phone, I saw the subject of the 'How It All Went Down' post. Not sure if he recognized me, but I certainly saw him.

I only bring these up because I'm tickled by it - by being a part of the neighborhood, of the community - and even after having been gone for two years, it seems I'm still a part.

Monday, November 28, 2005

Day 5: Bozeman to Seattle

Writing this today seems almost anti-climactic.

After having already driven 2300 miles by the time we got to Bozeman (and then hit snow), the last 800 miles looked daunting. Besides, we had stopped two towns earlier than we had planned to on day 4, so day 5 was supposed to be extra long and possibly a little trecherous still. After jumping on I90 in Bozeman, I drove for about 15 minutes and the snow literally disappeared. We cranked the speedometer up to nearly 90 where we stayed for another hour. Butte was more snow, but it was like Bozeman - 15 minutes before town and 15 minutes after town, so it was a short delay. We pushed on and before we knew it, we were in Coeur d'Alene, ID - and then Spokane. Crossing the border into Washington was exciting, but I knew we had about 270 miles to go, we were losing sunlight and we had one more mountain pass with a traffic-delaying rockslide waiting for us. Even though we'd left early, we'd still hit it at dark and I didn't know if there was snow in the pass.

When we passed the Gorge (for those of you not familiar with Washington, it's the natural ampitheater where bands like U2 still play) and started climbing into the Cascades, dusk had settled in. We were on the dark side (I couldn't resist, sorry) and traffic was picking up, but it wasn't as bad as we'd been led to believe. Then, without much warning, we saw signs that the slide was imminent. Cars started shifting to the right, speed limit 35 signs were posted and we saw the mountain lit up. But the delay was nowhere to be found and we kept moving. Five minutes later we cruised over a snowless Snoqualmie Pass and over the top of the Cascades and saw the city lights in the distance. Home.

So this morning Tanarra and I are sitting with laptops in tow at Victrola, my little coffee joint downstairs from my new/old place. The lattes are strong, Joy Division is playing, and we're the least tattooed in the room. It's 40 and sunny outside and we've shed the coats and gloves, opting for the native fleece look.

Day 5's playlist was short - but I'm including what I can remember here. It was a quiet morning without music as I got through the ice and snow - but when we listened to it, we played:

Dinah Washington
Etta James
Ella Fitzgerald
Herbie Hancock
Harry Connick, Jr.
Al Green
Dean Martin (and some other ultra lounge stuff)

Sunday kind of music.

Saturday, November 26, 2005

Day 4: Rapid City to Bozeman

We left Rapid City shortly after sunrise - and had an hour before the turnoff to Devil's Tower in Wyoming (outside of Sundance). The roads were empty and the weather perfect - it hovered around 40 the whole way and I was pushing 85 mph on some stretches. At 8:55 we turned toward the tower and found it about 30 minutes later - what a magnificent view. Thanks to the Wyoming Fish and Game chick, Heather O'Brien, who jumped out of her warm car and offered to snap photos of us in front of it. I'll have them posted in a couple of days.

From there we cruised easily to Sheridan, WY - past Big Horn and Massacre Hill, past the scenic entrance to Yellowstone. We switched off and got gas, Tanarra taking us into Montana. We had been warned that the weather had shifted and to expect snow all day today, but it was noon when we hit Sheridan and we hadn't hit a lick of it. About 90 minutes later we had driven through Billings and while we had seen some flurries and gotten some rain, this mystery snow was nowhere to be found. We kept moving on, hoping to hit Butte or Missoula a few hours later. Then we came around a bend about 20 miles from Bozeman and -SMACK- there is was. All of a sudden the roads were covered with thick ice and we passed two nasty accidents within 100 yards of each other. The mountain walls rose beside us and it got really easy to see where all of the snow was - right where we were driving. After another hour of pure driving hell (to Tanarra's credit, she sang the whole time and kept us on the road), we abandoned the project and pulled into Bozeman. It was only 3:30pm, but we knew we weren't going to make it much further and sunset was only an hour away - so we called it quits. There's easily a foot of snow outside, and it's still falling. I think in some areas it's over 18".

What's there in Bozeman? It's a lovely little place, actually - I stayed here the first time we drove to New York. It's full of trees (and snow, tonight) and lots of sky and stars. We're not far from the north entrance to Yellowstone and I'd imagine the fly fishing and hiking here is fantastic. It's a quiet place, sort of isolated - but we got a good meal of BBQ and some clean clothes from the (gasp!) WalMart across the street, so I have no complaints. We've already checked the weather for tomorrow and it's supposed to be clear all the way to Snoqualmie Pass. The boulders appear to have been removed from the roadway so the wait in the pass shouldn't be long, but we still have a good 12 hours in front of us, at least. Tomorrow, Seattle or bust!

Day 4 Playlist – 11/26/05 (Rapid City to Bozeman)

Day 4 Playlist – 11/26/05 (Rapid City to Bozeman)

Charles Lloyd - Georgia
Chuck Prophet - Just to See You Smile
Nina Simone - I Want a Little Sugar in my Bowl
Randy Newman - Jolly Coppers on Parade
Vic Chesnutt - Band Camp
Time - Tom Waits
Express Rising - Neighborhood
Slumber Party - New Trouble
Clem Snide - The Ballad of Unzer Charlie
Electrelane - Enter Laughing
Mulatu Astatqe - My Own Memory
Johnny Hartman - I See Your Face Before Me
Nick Drake - Northern Sky
Ulrich Schnauss - A Letter From Home
Mountain Goats - Old College Try
Evan Lurie - The Orderly Retreat
Greg Brown - Oh You
Pete Krebs & the Gossamer Wings - Patiently
Mojave 3 - Always Right
Radiohead - Subterranean Homesick Alien
Tindersticks - Can Our Love
My Bloody Valentine - Only Shallow

Friday, November 25, 2005

Day 3: La Crosse to Rapid City

Sunrise was beautiful in La Crosse. And then somewhere after we crossed the Mississippi into Minnesota it turned into garbage – snow drifts blanketing the interstate, salt trucks blowing shit all over the place, and pure white-knuckle driving. It wasn’t as bad as Ohio – at least this was dry – but it was early and there was a lot of dry snow on the ground so it had its moments. When I found myself behind a big truck being passed by another big truck, that was the worst. Probably 2 minutes of complete blindness as the snow blew all around the car from two sides. I couldn’t even see the stripe on the road.

Finally, we hit South Dakota and everything changed. The temperature steadily climbed and the sky cleared, revealing a giant blue sky. I had been here once before – driving I90 from Seattle to New York – but this time we were ahead of schedule and had time to really enjoy the scenery. It’s amazing the expanse of land here, and even more amazing the amount of history that happened in this state and in Wyoming, our next state. I drove for nearly an hour with no other cars in sight going my direction and it made me think about how incredible it was that people were even able to interact here at all, with so much space between people. I could see miles to the horizon, some jagged outcroppings in the direction of the Bad Lands, but very few farms and even fewer people. Only one guy was of note – he was the passenger in a fast moving truck on a dirt road running alongside the interstate. It slammed on its brakes as we passed and he jumped out, pointing a shotgun at the pheasant that was flying towards our car. I don’t know if he fired – we were just staring in disbelief as we passed.

Our last stop before Rapid City was in the tiny town of Wall, SD. If you’ve ever been within 300 miles of this town, you know it. Signs come every ½ mile for almost 200 miles – advertising 5 cent coffee, free iced water and all manner of tourist junk – for Wall Drug. It’s a small pharmacy that has turned into some sort of ghost-town mega schmaltz mall, complete with fresh fudge, turquoise jewelry and lots of beautiful boots. I had grown up seeing yellow and black Wall Drug bumper stickers all over Austin – but I never knew what it was. The first time I drove through it was during the bike rally in Sturgis and it was so busy I couldn’t get in. This time, it was the day after Thanksgiving and we had the town to ourselves. So I got myself a bumper sticker too.

After our short stop in Wall, we landed in Rapid City an hour later – driving on fumes. Rapid City is where Eve Marie Saint and James Mason were to fly from in the movie ‘North By Northwest’ – and it’s just east of Sturgis, the location of one of the biggest HOG bike rallies in the country. It’s an odd little place – on the foothills of the Black Hills, near Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore – and filled with tattooed and pierced youth and cars like those in the ‘Fast and the Furious’ (lots of ground effects). This is where we’ll stay the night. Tomorrow we’re headed through the corner of Wyoming (can you say Devil’s Tower???!!!) and into a snowy Montana.

Day 3 Playlist (11/25/05) La Crosse to Rapid City

Day 3 Playlist (11/25/05) La Crosse to Rapid City

Pet Shop Boys – What Have I Done to Deserve This
Pet Shop Boys – Shopping
Pere Ubu – 30 Seconds Over Tokyo
Pere Ubu – Final Solution
Peter Murphy – Deep Ocean Vast Sea
Peter Murphy – Shy
Peter Murphy – Cuts You Up
Peter Murphy – The Sweetest Drop
Pearl Jam – Jeremy
Nirvana – Heart Shaped Box
Nirvana – The Man Who Sold the World
Nick Drake – Pink Moon
Nick Drake – Northern Sky
Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds – Red Right Hand
Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds – Into My Arms
Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds – Lime Tree Arbor
Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds – People Just Ain’t No Good
Nathaniel Merriweather – Ladies Love Chest Rockwell
Nancy Sinatra – Bang Bang
Motorhead – Ace of Spades
Ministry – Stigmata
Lou Reed – Satellite of Love
Leonard Cohen – Joan of Arc
Loretta Lynn – Coal Miner’s Daughter
Led Zepplin – Kashmir
Kinks – Lola
Judas Priest – Breaking the Law
Johnny Cash – I Won’t Back Down
Johnny Cash – Solitary Man
Johnny Cash – That Lucky Old Sun (Just Rolls Around Heaven All Day)
Johnny Cash – One
Johnny Cash – Nobody
Jeff Buckley – Mojo Pin
Jeff Buckley – Grace
Jeff Buckley – Last Goodbye
Jeff Buckley – Lilac Wine
Jeff Buckley – So Real
Jeff Buckley – Hallelujah
Jeff Buckley – Lover, You Should Have Come Over
Jacques Brel – Ne Me Quitte Pas
Jack Johnson – Cocoon
Human League – Don’t You Want Me
Herbie Hancock – One Finger Snap
Herbie Hancock – Cantaloupe Island
Guns N’ Roses – Welcome to the Jungle
Guns N’ Roses – Paradise City

Day 2: Chicago to La Crosse

Thursday, Thanksgiving Day was a short drive – we started a lazy morning in Chicago with T’s parents and giant starch lunch – mac and cheese, broccoli casserole and mashed potatoes, with turkey and a spoon of cranberry relish on the side. We hit the road and hit that typical Chicago traffic all the way past O’Hare – and hit four or five toll booths before we left the state. At least we were able to grab that grande eggnog latte from the oasis of the roads before leaving the state for good.

We stopped earlier than we’d expected – but had built in time in the schedule for this sort of adjustment, so instead of going the extra 5 hours to Sioux Falls, we stayed in La Crosse, Wisconsin. Leftover Thanksgiving dinner was still warm from being planted next to the car’s heater, and we watched the end of a movie on Lifetime (TV for Women!) and the end of Close Encounters of the Third Kind before crashing for the night.

Grendel’s been panting since we left New York – and the dry hot air in the car hasn’t done much for his already crusty nose. Benadryl hasn’t done much for helping him sleep in the car (or at night), and he’s only responding to human food, turning his craggy little snout up to his gourmet fish and sweet potato dog food. Tonight we’re aiming for a McDonald’s or somewhere I can get French fries – that might encourage him to eat a meal. Of course, it’s only about 15 degrees outside so it’s not like any of us want to go out for a walk.

If Wednesday was full of goth and 80s, today seemed more full of traditional rock. And because we were in Chicago, we spent much of the time in traffic listening to Jack FM (We Play What We Want!). The playlist below is from my iPod, I didn’t track Jack’s stuff.

Day 2 Playlist – 11/24/05 (Chicago to La Crosse)

Day 2 Playlist – 11/24/05 (Chicago to La Crosse)

Who – Baba O’ Riley
Who – Won’t Get Fooled Again
U2 – I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For
U2 – With or Without You
T. Rex – Get It On
T. Rex – 20th Century Boy
Stevie Wonder – You Are the Sunshine of My Life
Soundgarden – Black Hole Sun
Soft Cell – Tainted Love
Smiths – Oscillate Wildly
Smiths – Please Please Please Let Me Get What I Want
Smiths – This Night Has Opened My Eyes
Smashing Pumpkins – Eye
Smashing Pumpkins – Zero
Smashing Pumpkins – 1979
Smashing Pumpkins – Cherub Rock
REO Speedwagon – Take It On the Run
Ramones – I Want You Around
Radiohead – Karma Police
Radiohead – Subterranean Homesick Alien
Queen & David Bowie – Under Pressure
Psychedelic Furs – Pretty in Pink
Peter Gabriel – In Your Eyes

Thursday, November 24, 2005

Day 1: Brooklyn to Chicago

I just realized I lost a day somewhere in the last couple. It seemed like yesterday that I was sitting at my desk working on a Sharepoint administrator’s contact list, scribbling down last-minute support notes and reminders to everyone where things could be found. But that was two days ago…

When I got home Tuesday night, I hopped in a hot bath and took a nap – that was the plan. At 10pm I woke up, loaded the car (more like crammed, stuffed and jimmied things into the car), and at 3am Wednesday morning, Tanarra and I set off. My shift was the first and I was able to go only about 90 minutes and she took over somewhere in New Jersey. I don’t even remember driving it and I remember even less falling asleep. But at 7am I woke up as we pulled into our first real break of the day, one of those travel centers in Pennsylvania with a 24 hour Starbucks. Joy, at last.

With a venti peppermint mocha warming my hands (that’s my signal the holidays have arrived, when I have my first theme drink from Starbuck’s), I took over. Sun was creeping onto the hills and as cheesy as it sounds, I was listening to Echo and the Bunnymen’s “Killing Moon.’ I saw frost on the buggies as we sped through the countryside – the road was clear and the sun warm, even though the temperature gauge read 18 degrees. It was noon when I surrendered my post near the western edge of PA, and Tanarra took over into the tip of West Virginia, Ohio and Indiana. While she drove, I shuffled and dealt Gypsy Tarot cards, courtesy of Leslie.

Ohio turned out to be the hardest part of the drive – windy snow and wet roads with a temperature around 30 degrees – and traffic was starting to get thick. It only lasted about 45 minutes, though – and we were off again towards Dayton and Indianapolis. The sun was setting about an hour outside of Indy, where I had taken over. At that point we had gone 14 hours in the car and had listened to everything from cheesy goth music (see aforementioned Echo and the Bunnymen) to hair bands (there’s nothing like a good rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody on the road) to classic Elvis. If you’re interested, my playlist is on a separate post (see Day 1 Playlist (11/23/05) Brooklyn to Chicago).

We hit Chicago at 6pm (adjusted, so 7pm EST) and landed at her parents’ home by 6:45. After settling the dog and grabbing a much needed hot meal of pork chops, potatoes and peas and carrots, I hit the sack.

So it’s Thanksgiving Day in Chicago, probably 30 degrees outside and crisp and as beautiful a fall day as I could have ordered up. We will hit the road again in a few hours, drunk with turkey and mac and cheese, headed to South Dakota for the night.

Day 1 Playlist (11/23/05) Brooklyn to Chicago

Day 1 Playlist (11/23/05) Brooklyn to Chicago

Echo and the Bunnymen – Killing Moon
Joy Division – Love Will Tear Us Apart
The Church – Under the Milky Way
INXS – Never Tear Us Apart
Stone Temple Pilots – Plush
Caetano Veloso – Zera A Reza
Sigur Ros – Intro
Sigur Ros – Svefn-g-Englar
New Order – Regret
Foo Fighters – Best of You
Audioslave – Like a Stone
Coldplay – Warning Sign
Duncan Sheik – Barely Breathing
Coldplay – Shiver
MC 900ft Jesus – The City Sleeps
Nine Inch Nails – The Perfect Drug
Marilyn Manson – I Put a Spell On You
Chemical Brothers – Loops of Fury
Foo Fighters – Everlong
Cake – The Distance
Tricky – Christiansands
??? – Battle Without Honor (this is a song from Kill Bill vol. 1)
Tricky – Bad Dreams
U2 – Stay (Faraway So Close)
Zero 7 – In the Waiting Line
Coldplay – High Speed
ABBA – Dancing Queen
ABBA – Take a Chance on Me
ABBA – Mamma Mia
Depeche Mode – Never Let Me Down
Depeche Mode – Strangelove
Elvis – Lawdy, Miss Clawdy
Elvis – Shake, Rattle and Roll
Elvis – I Want You, I Need You, I Love You
Elvis – Hound Dog
Elvis – Don’t Be Cruel
Elvis – Any Way You Want
Elvis – We’re Gonna Move
Elvis – Love Me Tender
Elvis – Poor Boy
INXS – The One Thing
INXS – Original Sin
INXS – What You Need
INXS – Listen like Thieves
INXS – Shine Like It Does
INXS – Need You Tonight
INXS – Devil Inside
INXS – New Sensation
INXS – Suicide Blonde
INXS – Disappear
INXS – The Stairs
INXS – Heaven Sent
INXS – Beautiful Girl
INXS – The Strangest Part
INXS – Deliver Me
Portishead – Mysterions
Portishead – Sour Times
Portishead – Strangers
Portishead – It Could Be Sweet
Portishead – Wandering Star
Portishead – It’s a Fire
Portishead – Numb
Portishead – Roads
Portishead – Pedestal
Portishead - Biscuit
Portishead – Glory Box
Queen – Bohemian Rhapsody
Queen – Another One Bites the Dust
Police – Synchronicity 1
Police – Walking in Your Footsteps
Police – O My God
Police – Mother
Police – Miss Gredenko
Police – Synchronicity 2
Police – Every Breath You Take
Police – King of Pain
Police – Wrapped Around Your Finger

Monday, November 21, 2005

5...4...3...2...1...

Tomorrow night, after two long years in New York, I'm going home to Seattle. This is an odd move for me, in a way. It's my sixth cross-country in ten years, perhaps my 30th apartment move in the same period of time. But this time I'm moving back to the apartment building I left, back to work at the company I left - in many ways picking up after taking a three year break. But the time here was good and I leave with no regrets.

I spent the last two weeks in New York enjoying the best of what it had to offer:
- My first (and perhaps last) show at CBGB, Ex-Habit
- Slices from Di Fara
- A bonfire in my backyard, complete with s'mores
- A double shack burger from the Shake Shack in Madison Sq. Park
- Incredible and frighteningly pricey cocktails from Pegu Club
- Milles crepes, a specialty dessert from Lady M Confectionery
- A dinner party in the building from 'The Jeffersons'
- A luxurious nap on Annie's table at Cornerstone Healing
- 'Pride and Prejudice' shown in the BAM Rose Theater
- Dessert at my very favorite place: ChikaLicious

Over the next five days, Tanarra (my pal and roommate), Grendel and I will cruise west. First stop, Chicago.

Monday, November 14, 2005

Huh? But it's just November

What's that you say? It can't be. No, I thought she said the spring!

Actually, it's true. Whatever the little birdie or the butthole pixie told you is in fact the truth. I'm returning to Seattle. And soon, I might add - I will be back before December, although barely. And yes, for all of you naysayers - to stay.

How'd this come about?
Lots of things contributed to it, but many of you read my Manhattan Project e-mail from late summer and knew it was coming. I was just ready to come home, and when the right offer came along I took it.

What about JetBlue? What about your friends in NY? What about all of that?
I love JetBlue. This is a fantastic company, I wholly believe in the product, and I hope to support it for as long as I can. I'm even offering to work on projects for them on the side. But this isn't about work and it's not about friends. It's about me being happy where I am living, and frankly New York just wasn't doing it for me. I've spent a lot of time elsewhere in the last few months - on a kayak in Florida, hiking on property outside of (gasp!) Waco (actually, double-gasp - it was outside of Crawford), even in Seattle. The more time I spent in New York the more I realized there were things about it that would never work for me, and I just didn't want to do it anymore.

And what about school? Weren't you starting this fall?
I was scheduled to start a Masters in Gastronomy program this fall at Boston University. I was working through my financial aid forms and thought, 'hmm - 5 years to finish the program and I'll be 40, $35000 more in debt, commuting weekly to Boston and I'll have lived 5 more years in a place I can't stand. Is this a good idea?' Just because it didn't work for me here doesn't mean I can't make it work somewhere else.

When's this all happening?
I'm leaving New York early in the morning of 11/23 and my good friend Tanarra and I are driving Grendel across the country. We should arrive in Seattle somewhere around the 27th or 28th.

Where are you going to live? What are you going to do?
Not to worry, I have got a cunning plan. I turned to my good friend Holly for the answer to the housing question...I'll be back on Capitol Hill beginning 12/1 in yet another unit in the kidney (for those who don't know, that's the Malden), my fourth apartment there. For work, I got a contract gig in Redmond.

Are you baking?
Well, not really. After some really difficult baking jobs over the last year, I'm taking a break from the whole thing. I'd like to get back to doing it because it makes me happy, not because there's a deadline or a paycheck at the end of it. For now, I'll bake for friends and just little things, but no more formal affairs. Sadly, that puts me out of the running for Bethany's cake in February, but I'm hoping to make amends to her and her lovely husband-to-be by baking something just for them.

Are you bringing any other baggage back with you?
No kids, no men, only a new mattress. Movers will pick that up sometime at the end of December, along with a few other things I accumulated. For now, only personal effects and the dog. So no, no new baggage. Oh yeah, and the random brick-throwing habit I picked up when I'm honked at by a car. You have been warned.

So what's your plan?
For now, get back and get comfortable. Pay down debt, think about buying. Yes, that means laying down roots. Get more dogs. Find someone. You know, all of the usual things. But working to live, not living to work.

When can we get together?
Give me the first week of December to get my bearings, to buy some things for the empty apartment, and to figure out much money I'll have left in my account. And then, I'll make soup and whomever wants to come over can come and sit on my wooden floors and visit. And for all of you who haven't lived in NYC, the send-offs are long and liquor-filled. I've already sworn off drinking for the rest of my stay here after a little game of dodge-car and getting-to-know-your-vomit-container. So forgive me for my teetotaling. It won't last forever.

Much love to everyone and have a happy Thanksgiving. I'll see you soon.