Lampreia, Scott Carsberg's joint on 1st Ave in Belltown, has been beckoning for a while. I'd been there once long ago, but Todd hadn't been so we made reservations for Saturday night and got all dressed up for it.
I'm here to blow the lid off the Lampreia experience. So many people I know have opinions about the place - the chef's a tyrant (I'm told), the food inspired but expensive, it's dated, the waiters skitter around like they're walking on eggshells...
And when you walk by the place or try to get more information, you know why. The windows are completely covered and lit from the outside so you can't see in. No menu is posted on their door or their website. In fact, it's not really a website as much as it is a full-color business card with no links to anything. All you hear about is the chef's rep and how magical the food is. So here goes...
The interior looks like an old hotel restaurant. Creamy walls, muted lighting, quiet service. The window to the kitchen is open to the dining room (but slightly obscured), but it is absolutely silent in that place. White tablecloths, maybe 13 tables total - and when we walked in there was only 1 other table there. We saw only 25 covers (diners) the whole evening, and most of the tables stood bare all night. It was Saturday night.
When we arrived at our table, our waiter brought over the evening's first foray - an albacore tuna tartare on savory biscuit with a little pureed avocado. When I reached for my plate, he said, 'no, you should take it with your hands.' When I started to move it toward my mouth, he said, 'the chef would like you to enjoy this in a single bite.' Uh-huh. So this was how it started.
A quick overview on the menu: in the bottom-left corner of the page, it told diners that they were to remove any papers, pens, pencils, writing instruments - anything that could document the experience - from the table. Phones were to be off. On the right side of the menu was a list of course choices. On the left was a short note that said, 'many of my customers asked me for the pleasure of cooking for them. To do this, please close your menu and let me cook' or something like that. It was the offer for a tasting menu. Todd and I picked that, 8 courses. We had already each ordered a glass of wine (bad, we should have asked what sort of wine would be suggested before we committed to the tasting menu).
Here's the menu:
1.
Burrata with pureed mango
2. Locally caught
Dungeness crab stuffed in a shaved Fuji apple cigar. Served with apple gelee and
smoked salt3.
Celeriac veloute with smoked cream and celery leaves
4. Poached
foie gras enrobed in hazlenut cocoa
ganache, served with candied red pepper and
kumquat puree
5. Steamed artichoke bottom stuffed with lightly smoked cow's milk cream-type cheese, served with pureed tomato, pureed Kalamata olive paste, and a tomato wafer
6. Cedar-smoked
duck breast ham with date puree and a bitter
endive pesto
7. Pacific bass seared (pan fried, really) with smoked paprika, served with 'carrots' made of yukon gold potatoes and
pequillo peppers and a wilted scallion
*** At this point, we inserted a cheese course that wasn't part of the menu, but made the meal for me:
Todd's - shaved
Parmagiano Reggiano with 25 yo
Balsamic vinegarMine - Broiled
Pecorino on an Alder plank rubbed with
white truffle honey and served with a candied chestnut and shaved black truffle
8. Dessert (also different, I guess based on the feedback we'd given all night about each course)
Todd's - Buffalo milk yogurt mixed with blueberries, served with blackberries and raspberries sandwiched between vanilla wafers
Mine - Watsonville strawberries cored and stuffed with white chocolate mousse, served on a strawberry
coulis with a strawberry wafer
We finished the meal with a selection of petit fours: a 65% cocoa truffle, coconut macaroon, peanut butter cookie, lemon cookie and cinnamon cookie.
The whole meal took 3 hours, and cost about the same as the Herbfarm. I'd come back here again.
And how did we remember all of the details? I wrote it all quickly on the only piece of paper I was allowed. My credit card receipt.